• The pedigree and the rich history behind it
• Vibrant colors used
• Finest of silk varieties like mulberry silk used
• An heirloom being passed on to the next generation
• The best variety of fabrics used like Katan Silk, Organza(Kora) silk, Georgette saree, Shattir sarees etc.

Katan Silk

Kora or Organza silk

Georgette saree

• The wide variety of weaves like Jangla, Jamdani, Tanchoi, Kinkhab, etc

Baby Pink Pure Organza/Kora Silk Banarasi Handloom Saree with Jamdani Weaves

Jangla Banarasi Silk Saree

Black Pure Silk Handloom Tanchoi Saree with Tilfi Border

Amber Orange Pure Silk Handloom Banarasi Kimkhab Dupatta with Shikargah

Check out all our the latest Handloom Banarasi, pure banarasi silk sarees,Banarasi wedding sarees from Khinkhwab

This gorgeous craft is more than just a craft, it is a blend of tradition and culture. Learn step by step how a delicate Ajrakh is created.

Winning all hearts, Ajrakh has become a heartthrob not just in India but worldwide. The intricate and ethnic design along with a perfect balance of vibrant colors makes it irresistible.

Rooting back to the land of mirages, Rajasthan, Ajrakh printing is a beauty. What makes it more exquisite is the effort and physical labor that goes into the whole process. The multidimensional process includes multiple stages. Starting from the most famous natural material-based indigo and blue dyes to wooden blocks used for the printing, Ajrakh printing demands a craftsman's sweat and soul. Here is a brief on how your Ajrakh is made so impeccable and gorgeous:

Origin

Ajrakh is a form of block printing found in Sindh, Pakistan.. Over the years, ajraks have become a symbol of the Sindhi culture and traditions. Ajrakh print is also famous in neighbouring areas of India in the states of Rajasthan and Gujarat

Ajrakh - The whole process

Stage 1:

In the first stage of creating an Ajrakh, the cotton fabric is washed thoroughly. Washing the cloth helps in removing the excess starch in it. To wash the cotton fabric, a mixture of camel dung. Castor oil and soda ash are used. After soaking and washing the fabric with this mixture thoroughly, the fabric is dried overnight. This complete process of washing and drying is done almost for 8-9 times so that the fabric foams when rubbed. Once the fabric starts foaming, it is soaked in water for the final finish which is known as Saaj.‘

Stage 2:

The second stage is called the process of Kasanu. In this process, the fabric is made ready for printing by dying it in a cold solution of Myrobalan. Myrobalan is used so that it can ensure that the print sticks to the fabric and stays put.

Stage 3:

The third stage is called Khariyanu. In this stage, a wooden block is used to print multiple times on the fabric to create an outline. A resist of lime and gum is used to print the outline on the fabric. What is more intricate in this stage is the wooden block that is used and has been crafted by a master craftsman. The wooden block consists of a very complex motif that is first traced on a wooden block and then carved by the craftsman. Teak wood is used for carving these blocks. After carving the woodblock, it is oiled and the edges are smoothened.

Stage 4:

One of the most commonly used dyes in Ajrakh printing is indigo. The process of making this natural dye consists of making a mixture of natural indigo, lime, water, sagikhar, and casiatora in a clay vessel. Once the mixture is ready, it is left for fermentation for more than a month. After proper fermentation, the color of the solution turns yellow, indicating that the dye is ready.

Stage 5:

Once the dye and the block are ready, finally the process of printing the fabric starts. This can take up to 12-15 days depending upon the length of the fabric and the intricacy of the design. Some of the most used motifs in Ajrakh are flowers, moons, stars, and birds.

Stage 6:

The sixth stage is called vichharun. In this stage, after the tiring process of printing, the cloth is washed thoroughly under running water and spread flat to dry.

Stage 7:

In the seventh stage, a solution of lime and turmeric is used. This solution is sprayed on the cloth. This increases the sustainability of the print along with enhancing the colors.

Stage 8:

The final stage starts with washing the cloth in an alum solution. After that, the fabric is washed in plain water and dried. Once the fabric is all dried up, it becomes ready to use!

Divided into 8 stages and a span of months, this process is not only tiring but also extremely complex and delicate. One small mistake and all your efforts can go into vain. Which is why each piece of Ajrakh is an art in itself. The effort and soul invested by the craftsmen are beyond compare. And that is why this craft will stay close to our hearts and will always be a special one!

Khinkhwab Ajrakh Products

Hand Block Ajrakh & Bandhani Modal Silk Dupatta

White & Blue Hand Block Ajrakh Modal Silk Saree

Hand Block Ajrakh Modal Silk Fabric

If you are looking at supporting handmade and buy Handloom Banarasi silk attires online, you can find them all in this one-stop-shop Khinkhwab - The Essence of Banaras

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• The pedigree and the rich history behind it
• Vibrant colors used
• Finest of silk varieties like mulberry silk used
• The best variety of fabrics used like Katan Silk, Organza(Kora) silk, Georgette saree, Shattir sarees etc.
• An heirloom being passed on to the next generation
• The wide variety of weaves like Jangla, Jamdani, Tanchoi, Kinkhab, etc

Katan Silk Saree

Georgette Handloom Banarasi Saree

Jamdani Katan Silk Saree

Jangla Banarasi Silk Saree

Tanchoi Banarasi Silk Saree

Check out all our latest Handloom Banarasi collections

Maharani Gayatri Devi

Considered one of the most gorgeous, the Last Maharani of Jaipur, Maharani Gayatri Devi will be an unforgettable image in Indian royalty for generations to come. The impeccable sense of style, the regalness and the elegance she had are beyond words. Born on May 23, 1919, in London, she grew up to be an independent, and one of the most modern Maharanis.

She was the third Maharani consort of Jaipur from 1940 to 1949, through her marriage to Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II] Following her husband's signature for the Jaipur State to become part of the Union of India and her step-son's assumption of the title in 1970, she was known as Maharani Gayatri Devi, Rajmata of Jaipur.

Early Life

Brought up in a non-Rajput community, Maharani Gayatri Devi was the daughter of Maharaja Jitendra Narayan and Maharani Indira Raje. She belonged to a dynasty native to Cooch Behar in Bengal. Her mother, the daughter of Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III and Maharani Chimnabai, from the Gaekwad dynasty of the Marathas, played an important role in her upbringing as a fierce woman.

Political Career

After partition and independence of India in 1947, Gayatri Devi ran for Parliament in 1962 and won the constituency in the Lok Sabha in the world's largest landslide, winning 192,909 votes.] She continued to hold this seat on 1967 and 1971 as a member of the Swatantra Party founded by C. Rajagopalachari, running against the Indian National Congress party.

In 1965, during a meeting with Prime Minister Lal Bahadur Shastri, Gayatri Devi was again asked to join Congress. This was the time when, despite the fact that her husband was being made ambassador to Spain, she stuck to her principles and decided not to join the party.] She retired from politics and published her biography, A Princess Remembers, written by Santha Rama Rau, in 1976. She was also the focus of the film Memoirs of a Hindu Princess, directed by Francois Levie.

Love for Handlooms

Maharani Gayatri Devi’s style reflected her fierce nature and her royalness in every inch. She had immense love and admiration for different handloom sarees. On many special occasions and parties, you could see her wearing a handloom saree.

Pairing each of her sarees with an elegant set of jewels, she made sure not to fall short on royalness. Soft shades of pastel green, blue and pink were her favorites. Being an Indian Maharani, she was expected to be dressed in traditional attire. And she was typically seen wearing a long sleeve blouse with her sarees to maintain the traditional touch to her look. However, her bob-cut hair all along made sure that she was still that independent, fierce and unconventional woman inside.

Her inspiration for her royal sense of style came from her mother. She said in an interview that her mother always knew where to shop and how to wear a saree elegantly. Her mother Maharani Chimnabai had the best collection of Chiffon Sarees that she always admired.

Bangalore based Clothing store, Angadi Galeria has borne witness to the patronage of finest royalties in our country. From Maharani Gayatri Devi have known to stop by the store for their saree fix

Maharani’s Style

She made the best out of every situation that came along and became one of the most unconventional Maharanis in the Indian Royal history. Not only known for her political life, social work but also for reviving the then-dying art of blue pottery. She also revived the image of handloom sarees at that time. Thousands of women fell in love with sarees all over again. Every saree that she wore became a style statement.

The panache with which she used to carry her sarees, be it a political gathering or a private function was impeccable. Floral prints, pastel colors, minimal jewels, and her poise became the talk of the Indian Royalty. She was admired and idolized by many for her dynamic nature and sense of style. She was the last and the most famous Maharani in the history of Indian royal families. Maharani Gayatri Devi was listed in Vogue among the 10 most beautiful women in the world. She looked as much resplendent in sarees as she looked in khakhi pants.

Last days

With a mindset to live life to its fullest, she never had any regrets in her life. She lived with style, poise, and elegance. She was the epitome of ferocious beauty with a traditional sense of style. Her journey ended on 29 July 2009 due to lung failure, as reports said. Her 90 years of life full of love, compassion, and regalness will always be remembered.

If you are looking at supporting handmade and buy Handloom Banarasi silk attires online, you can find them all in this one-stop-shop Khinkhwab - The Essence of Banaras

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If you ask out of so many exquisite Banarasi silk saris, which is that one silk which holds a special place in silk which oozes royalty and elegance to your closet? The answer is the one and only TANCHOI!

Light, soft and yet rich because of its embossed weaves and motifs, the intricate patterns on the Tanchoi make each piece, a work of art. But apart from its sheer beauty, the Tanchoi brocade is also a stand-out because of the story attached to it and the journey it made across the continent.

So are you readers excited to read the story of Tanchoi silk today in our blog?

The Origin and History of the Tanchoi Silks

While Tanchoi is closely connected to Banaras and its rich tradition of silk weaving, this fabulous silk traces its roots to China. It is said to have made its way to India thanks to Parsi traders who loved their silk!

The story of Tanchoi starts in the mid 19th century CE. It is believed that Sir Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy, a Parsi merchant commissioned three weavers from a Joshi family of Surat, to travel to China and learn the craft of weaving this particular brocade silk, around 1856 CE. Once they returned, the brothers adopted the name of their Chinese teacher, Chhoi, who had taught them the art of silk weaving. Tan, close to the Gujarati word tran meaning ‘three’, referred to the three brothers. Hence the silk they learned to make , came to be known as the Tanchoi

Unfortunately, by the early 20th century, European fashion took over in the port city of Bombay and this silk was replaced by Georgette and lighter fabrics.The production of Tanchoi sarees went on till the 1950s in Bombay. The twist in the story came up then that the Banaras weavers learned the art of making these brocades and started producing the same fabric, for a much cheaper price. This is also how some of the intricate Banarasi designs made their way onto Tanchoi silks.

Today, Tanchoi saris are back in the limelight and hugely popular across India. But few who buy it, notice the threads of history that created this rich fabric or how the ancient city of Banaras embraced the Tanchoi, making it its own!

Weaving process

Tanchoi is one of the weaving techniques involving a single or double warp and two to five colors on the weft which are often of the same shade. Another stand alone feature of the Tanchoi sarees is that the fabric texture background has a Satin finish. It is one of the complex and technical weaving techniques as it uses one or two warp and two to five weft colors. These sarees are extremely light weight and soft to drape.

Varieties of Tanchoi

Banarasi Tanchoi has several different varieties:

●       Satin Tanchoi – As the name suggests, it is based on a Satin fabric base of a single color and the weft threads of one or more colors. The additional weft colors can also be used as a body weft.

●       Satin Jari Tanchoi – This is an extension of Satin Tanchoi wherein the weft is a combination of either one Silk and one Gold thread or two Silk threads and one Gold thread.

●       Atlas or Gilt – The fabric surface is pure satin. In comparison to other fabrics, Atlas or Gilt is heavier and has more shine because of the extra use of zari.

●       Mushabbar – This version stands out with its net woven design to appear as bushes or branches of a tree. The Mushabbar design is often associated with a jungle or nature’s greenery

Colours and Patterns

Tanchoi textiles are fabricated in vibrant colours and the weaving technique employs several silk yarns. Like Brocades, Tanchois are also constructed using an extra set of colorful weft silk yarn covering the satin ground thus creating unusually distinctive patterns.

In Tanchoi sarees the designs are always figures of flying birds, paired cocks amidst floral sprays, which are worked all over the body surrounded by flowers and baskets containing flowers. Sometimes the pallu is done more solidly with peacocks, baskets or bunches of flowers or hunting scenes. Tanchoi silk sarees are also ornamented in some ravishing floral, geometrical and paisley designs. Most of the times the designs are of Chinese origin but weavers also integrate Indian motifs to create unique pieces of art.

Tanchoi in Current Days

Did you know that our Prime Minister Narendra Modi, on a visit to the United Kingdom in 2015, presented a Tanchoi stole to Queen Elizabeth II.

Tanchoi sarees are a popular across the country for formal occasion, wedding ceremonies or festivals. Tanchoi Silk Sarees are ideally worn in cooler months of autumn and winter owing to the fabric.

Check out some of the Khinkhwab Tanchoi Products which would be some ravishing additions to your ethnic closet!

Brown Pure Katan Silk Handloom Tanchoi Banarasi Saree

Ooh-la-la ! Check out this exclusive Katan Silk range of Tanchoi weave by Khinkhwab, that is sure to make you fall in love with!

Green Handloom Banarasi Katan Silk Tanchoi Saree

Check out this beautiful Katan Silk Saree with both sides of Tanchoi, that is woven with pure Resham threads, which is perfect wear for any weddings!

Sindoori Katan Silk Tanchoi Handloom Banarasi Saree

Khinkhwab brings you an exclusive Katan Silk Tanchoi Jamewar saree with paisley woven all over, inspired by Kashmiri designs.

Known for the elegance and class of its luxurious texture, vibrant color, and elegant look, Banarasi silk has its own place in all of our hearts. No one can say that their heart doesn't skip a beat when they see a Banarasi silk saree, dupatta for lehenga. Making its way back into the fashion, Banarasi silk saree has captured some of the gorgeous divas of Bollywood. Now, not only Banarasi has made a comeback but has also hit hard the market with its classic look and regal feel. Here are some of the Bollywood divas in their ravishing banarasi avatar:

Deepika Padukone

The very talented “Queen of Bollywood” - Deepika Padukone is often seen in a variety of looks in the movies due to her versatility. And she is also known for her grace in every attire she wears. May it be a beautiful red Handwoven Banarasi saree or a stunning red Banarasi dupatta, it just adds to her beauty in this picture. The red color and the rich texture of this exquisite banarasis enhances this Bollywood divas sense of style.

You can’t take your eyes off this Bollywood Diva ,isn’t it?

Deepika Padukone looking so elegant in a red Banarasi saree

Deepika pairing a red Banarasi dupatta with her Sabyasachi suit , post her wedding

Madhuri Dixit

Madhuri Dixit! The name says it all. This actress is the definition of charm and ageless beauty despite being a yesteryear heroine. She has managed to add charisma and panache into traditional Indian wear, especially sarees like never before. Her every look is carefully styled and put together effortlessly. Look at the way she looks so dazzling in this blue and green Banarasi saree

Karishma Kapoor

Another talented diva of Bollywood who has been seen in stunning Handwoven Banarasi sarees and Lehenga quite a few times is Karishma Kapoor. Two such instances where the internet and social media was completely going ga-ga were the White Banarasi saree and Pink Banarasi Lehenga, which Karishma flaunted so effortlessly.

This actress has taken Banarasi silk saree game a notch up! She looked absolutely gorgeous in this Banarasi silk style.

Alia Bhatt

Known as the darling of Bollywood yet one of the strongest and most powerful actors in the film industry is Alia Bhatt. Completely rocking her traditional look, Alia can be seen here in a mehndi green regal banarasi lehenga. Putting forward her beauty, the banarasi lehenga is doing the right justice for this darling Bollywood diva. Check out Alia Bhatt in a gorgeous Banarasi Lehenga for Diwali party

Anushka Sharma

Adding to the Banarasi style, Anushka Sharma, another Bollywood diva was seen in a Red Golden Handwoven Banarasi sarees after her wedding. Posing with her husband Virat Kohli, Anushka is looking dynamically beautiful and classy. The golden work on her Banarasi saree is perfectly matched with a piece of golden choker jewelry. Carrying forward the tradition Banarasi style, Anushka turned quite a few heads and won some hearts.

Anushka Sharma in a Red Banarasi saree for her wedding reception

Priyanka Chopra

For this Anushka Sharma and Virat Kohli’s star-studded reception, the golden Banarasi saree that Priyanka Chopra wore was something that was standing out in the entire crowd, which none of us can still forget. If you’re a bride-to-be on the lookout for saris for her trousseau, the gold sari she chose for the occasion makes the perfect pick

Sonam Kapoor

Sonam Kapoor is the ultimate queen of fashion and there seems to be no one yet who can beat her style choices. She made all heads turn toward her when she wore this Pink Banarasi Silk Lehenga Choli, paired with a brocade sleeveless Choli blouse and pink Net Dupatta ,while she was attending the Life Ok Screen Awards

Vidya Balan

Carrying Banarasi saree with poise and grace is what makes it look even more regal, and Vidya Balan is one of those Bollywood divas who have always done justice to a Handloom Banarasi silk sarees. She loves to dress herself up in various designs and colors of Banarasi saree in every occasion she can. We all can still not forget the way Vidya looked so gorgeous and stunning in a pure red Banarasi silk saree for her wedding.

Kangana Ranaut

Another popular and admired actress of Bollywood who loves Banarasi silk sarees and flaunts it with poise is Kangana Ranaut! Her saree choices are bold and beautiful! She flaunts every color with vogue. She carries silk sarees with dauntless pride and adds to the beauty of saree too.

Look at the gorgeous Kangana Ranaut in Dark blue Banarasi saree which was admired by the media and people too!

Banarasi trend with Bollywood Divas

There are many other names on the list of Bollywood Divas in Banarasi. Banarasi has always been an essential and rich part of our culture, and it will keep rocking the Bollywood divas' wardrobe every now and then.

If you want to style and look like these stunning Bollywood divas and looking at options to buy the equivalent Banarasi silk sarees and lehengas online,these are some of the recommendations for you which you can find on Khinkhwab’s website. You can see all the latest Banarasi silk sarees with price ranges starting from Rs. 6k and goes up to Rs.60k

1. https://khinkhwab.com/products/pink-orange-pure-silk-handloom-banarasi-kalidar-lehenga-set-with-tree-of-life
2. https://khinkhwab.com/products/orange-tree-of-life-pure-silk-handloom-banarasi-saree
3. https://khinkhwab.com/collections/dupatta/products/red-pure-silk-handloom-banarasi-dupatta-with-meenakari-jaal-work
4. https://khinkhwab.com/collections/lehanga/products/pink-pure-georgette-handloom-banarasi-lehenga-with-hand-brush
5. https://khinkhwab.com/products/candy-apple-red-pure-handloom-banarasi-red-chaand-boota-saree
6. https://khinkhwab.com/collections/saree/products/pink-green-pure-georgette-handloom-banarasi-bandhani-saree

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Origin and History

Jamdani is a vividly patterned, sheer cotton fabric, traditionally woven on a handloom by craftspeople and apprentices around Dhaka, Bangladesh, Jamdani is of Persian origin , where in ‘Jam’ means flower and ‘Dani’ means a vase or container. This fabric is world famous for its eye-catching, artistic and expensive ornamental fabric.

Well, the origin of Jamdani is still a mystery, it is strongly believed that Jamdani weaving tradition is of Bengali origin.. Its developed as an industry has been noted in Kautilya’s Arthashastra,where it is mentioned that this fine muslin cloth were used in Bangla and Pundra.In the first half of the nineteenth century, James Taylor described the figured or flowered jamdani; in the late nineteenth century, T. N. Mukharji referred to this fabric as jamdani muslin.

The centuries-old Jamdani weaving tradition originated in Dhaka, Bangladesh and is today carried forward in West Bengal. These are feather-light and sheer sarees, with fine motifs woven all over the body giving it a luxurious and grand finish.

Jamdani Weaving process

Jamdani is a time-consuming and labour-intensive form of weaving because of the richness of its motifs, which are created directly on the loom using the discontinuous weft technique. Weaving is thriving today due to the fabric’s popularity for making saris, the principal dress of Bengali women at home and abroad.

The Jamdani sari is a symbol of identity, dignity and self-recognition and provides wearers with a sense of cultural identity and social cohesion. The weavers develop an occupational identity and take great pride in their heritage; they enjoy social recognition and are highly respected for their skills. A few master weavers are recognized as bearers of the traditional Jamdani motifs and weaving techniques, and transmit the knowledge and skills to disciples.

However, Jamdani weaving is principally transmitted by parents to children in home workshops. Weavers – together with spinners, dyers, loom-dressers and practitioners of a number of other supporting crafts – form a closely knit community with a strong sense of unity, identity and continuity.

Colors and Motifs

Jamdani was initially made as a variant of bright but contrasting colours, today’s sarees come with colours outright. There is a popular variant known as half-and-half jamdani that has become rather popular. There can be no denying that the colours and designs have kept on changing over time. In the yesteryears, the motifs were made on grey fabric, but as time went on, colours of other fabrics also started to be used. Specifically, in the 1960s, jamdani work on a red-coloured fabric became extremely popular

One of the most remarkable things about the motifs on a Dhakai jamdani saree is that they are not sketched on the fabric. Instead, a translucent graph paper is used to draw the motifs on, which are then placed below the warp. These sarees have multicolor linear or floral motifs all over the body and have an exquisite elaborate pallu.

Why Jamdani?

If you thought that sarees are the only thing that is jamdani, you are mistaken. Jamdani is also used to make dupattas, handkerchiefs and scarves. The sari is woven with cotton and resham-threads. If you want to go for a traditional look yet keep in terms with the modern times, we advise you to go for this sari.

This saree is one of the favorite saris of Bengals in all occasions—be it wedding parties, any Puja and even college farewells! In other words, there’s a jamdani for every one of all ages.

Jamdani and Banarasis

Jamdani and Banarasis go a long way together! One simply cannot miss the Jamdani and brocades of Banaras. The silk Jamdani is a technical variety of brocade traditionally woven in Banaras. It may be considered to be one of the finest products to come out of the Banarasi loom. Here silk fabric is brocaded with cotton and rarely with zari threads.

As you all know,the speciality of the Banarasi saree lies in its use of zari or rich gold and silver coloured thread work on motifs and brocades.Added to this,with the intention to improve the aesthetic appeal, modern day Jamdani takes the form of cotton and gold thread weaving to create motifs of geometric patterns and floral designs in colourful hues. Jamdani hand weaving has become a necessary accompaniment of Banarasi Silks today.

Banarasi artisans use the weft technique of weaving, where the artistic motifs are produced by a non-structural weft, in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads together. It takes almost a year to weave a Jamdani Saree.

Refer to this source of information about Jamdani and brocades of Banaras:

https://purushu.com/2011/08/banarasi-silk-jamdani-and-brocade.html

Khinkhwab Products

Khinkhwab has been inspired by these wonderful weave always and check out some of our latest fabulous Jamdani collections

Blue Pure Organza Silk Banarasi Jamdani Saree

Baby Pink Pure Organza Silk Banarasi Handloom Saree

If you are looking at supporting handmade and buy Handloom Banarasi silk attires online, you can find them all in this one-stop-shop Khinkhwab - The Essence of Banaras

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The ‘city of temples’, the ‘holy city of India’, ‘the city of lights’, or ‘the cultural capital of India’—it has been bestowed numerous names. But, apart from it being the undeniable apex of the Indian religious cosmos, its lineage, and grandeur, the city of Banaras also is a remarkable source of premium sarees.

Banaras is not merely a city that beholds multiple things at once, it is the emotion that brings people together.

History of Banaras

Most scholars date Banaras to be approximately three thousand years old, while others have dated important structures in Banaras to the eighth century BC (Justice 15). It has heaps of mismatched temples and strains under its own myths, which are contradictory, amusing, obscure and impossible to—at times deny and at times prove! The Ghats have a significant story attached to themselves. Each ghat was constructed by a different medieval king, and though they are young compared to the ancient ruins on Rajghat, the ghats have inspired their own mythology.

Apart from the extensive mythological history, the city has also garnered ample popularity for Art and Literature. Great Indian writers such as Kabir Das, Tulsidas Khullka Bhatt, Munshi Premchand, Bharatendu HarishChandra, and many more have lived here. Their poems, stories, have kept the artistic nerves alive in this city. Furthermore, people celebrate their numerous festivals in traditional styles of classical and folk culture of Varanasi.

Culture of Varanasi

The culture of Varanasi is spell bounding. It is intimately associated with the traditions that go back to ancient times. The living culture religious traditions are shown by the three foremost religions i.e., Hinduism, Buddhism, and Jainism. It is a significant religious pilgrimage destination. During the change in power, when the old culture and traditions were being destroyed by the Muslims ruler, Akbar was the change amongst them. The great king, Akbar played an important role in maintaining the Varanasi culture and heritage.

Origin of Banarasi Silk

Moving ahead to the popular facts of Banaras, there’s no debating the fact that Banaras has been an important centre for weaving since time immemorial. The vibrancy and admiration of Banarasi sari needs no introduction. It has always found its unique admiration in the trousseau of a lady and has been as much as a fashion statement as an obeisance to tradition. Its glory has rung the bells of all the couture of fashion aficionados—from big-ticket to celebrities in India to fashionistas in Europe.

The finesse of the Banarasi silk was initially used only for furnishing fabrics, light turban cloths, yardages etc. It reached its peak during Shah Jahan’s time (1628-1657 CE). However, the quintessential Banarasi silk sari gained prominence only during the 19th century CE. A single look at the motifs will give you an idea about how complex and varied the influences have been. In fact, weaves have developed a hierarchy within them that makes this specialisation possible. Multiple weaver gharanas specialise in different kinds of weaves which is massively spread out across the city.

It was Mughal Emperor Akbar who gave the weaving industry, here and across India, a shot in the arm. His eloquent taste towards fabric was matchless. His love of silk grew fonder after he draped his consorts in specialized rick silk sari with zari work done. And he didn’t limit it to mere clothing. He extended the work and had his palace draped in it – carpets and wall hangings made from Banarasi silk. And centuries later, when the British came, they too were baffled by this intricate handicraft. But it was post-independence that several small scale industries grew in the region and Banarasi silk became much sought after.

The Legacy - Banarasi Silk

The vibrancy and admiration of Banarasi sari have always found its unique admiration in the trousseau of a lady and has been as much as a fashion statement as an obeisance to tradition. Its glory has rung the bells of all the couture of fashion aficionados—from big-ticket to celebrities in India to fashionistas in Europe.

The quintessential Banarasi silk sari has its own class of weaving. Weavers have developed a hierarchy within them in the city that makes this specialisation possible. Multiple weaver gharanas specialise in different kinds of weaves which is massively spread out across the city. Each section of city is where you’ll find one gharana working on a special kind of design or motif. Maybe that is the reason why it dominates the wardrobe of many across the nation.

The culture of Banaras has remained relatively similar since its very existence. Be it the religious traditions, the taste of lip-smacking delicacies, the artistic swings of brush, or the beautiful Banarsi sari itself. This is an accomplishment for the holy city, considering that many cities today have become quite secularized. It is and will be deemed as one of the holiest cities and continue to attract people towards its glory.

Types of Banarasis

The Banarasi sari is categorized into four distinctive varieties. Pure silk (katan), organza (kora), zari and silk, georgette and shattir. Amongst these, the pure silk version is the most preferred one by the Indian brides. On the basis of design, Banarasi sarees can also be classified into jangla, tanchoi, vaskat, cutwork, tissue and butidar.

Women’s special place for Banarasis

The zari or the gold or silver brocade that makes these customary sarees/ lehengas/dupattas exceptionally unique amongst the rest. The dazzling finish and lustre of Banarasi silk always manages to catch the fancy of modern Indian women,brides as well global citizens imbibing the Indian Culture. Distinguished designers like Anita Dongre, Sabyasachi, Sharbari Dutta, Ritu Berry, and many more have experimented with Banarasi weaves making it trendy yet authentically traditional to match the changing fashion trends.

Whether it’s Hot Pink, Parrot green, The Stunning red or the Subtle peach, you can buy Banarasi Silk products online from your Khinkhwab, as per your preferred colour and pattern. Khinkhwab, time and again, consciously tries to being the essence of Banaras to its online customers.

Explore the handmade and handwoven Banarasi Silk attires, and thereby support the work of weavers of Banaras .Buy Handloom Banarasi silk attires online,as you can find them all in this one-stop-shop Khinkhwab - The Essence of Banaras

India has been the abode to centuries of intricate artwork on fabrics. Not only artisans but also royalty took part in weaving and embroidery. It is believed that the famous thread work on Muslin fabrics called ‘chikankari’ was invented by the Mughal queen, Nur Jahan. The queen was a gifted artisan and skilled at needlework.

Such has been the ornate tradition of weaving in India that each region has its own weaving style and custom. The proficient master weavers embellish the fabrics with distinctive and exquisite patterns and prints. Many tales arise from a specific pattern that take us back to hundreds of years of skilled craftsmanship and ingenuity.

An artisan is responsible for retaining the ancient history of the weaving traditions while also making them functional and befitting for a modern lifestyle. The idea is to create a melange of heritage and purposefulness.

Weaving Traditions - Glory of the North: Exuberance and frolic

Jammu & Kashmir: The pristine mountains of this northernmost state in India boast of a rich culture of weaving. Pashmina literally means made from wool. The soft fabric cannot tolerate the high tension of machines and hence, has to be handwoven. Weavers create a delicate design in a style known as ‘kashidakari’ for days together. Multiple stitches on the same spot are a speciality of kashidakari. Every artisan is assigned with different duties and it can take many people to create a single piece of design.

Punjab: The exuberant air of Punjab is resonated in the form of ‘Phulkari’, a bright and vivid form of embroidery. Phulkari means flower work and is characterized by geometrical patterns. Silk threads are used to create darn stitches on cotton. The motifs are mainly inspired from day-to-day life and crops.

An oasis of dyes

Rajasthan: The land of majestic kings and regal queens is famed for its history, bravery and celebrated architecture. It is also famous for its weaving and embroidery conventions.

Kota weaving traditions come from Kota, Rajasthan. The distinguishing features of this type of weaving are the square checks known as ‘khats’. Light-weight silk and cotton sarees are used and strengthened by rice and onion juices.

The tie and dye style of weaving, known as ‘Bandhani’, is very popular among the general populace. A cloth is dyed using a natural colour and then tied. This tying creates a pattern. Patterns can be changed by tying the fabric in a different manner and using the tying thread at different points.

‘Leheriya’ weaving is another tie and dye style of Rajasthan. Leher simply means waves and like Bandhani, the fabric is dyed and then tied at different points. However, unlike Bandhani where patterns of flowers are created, waves in zigzag pattern are formed by Leheriya.

The silken drapes

Uttar Pradesh: The Hindi heartland, vast and varied, offers some of the finest weaving traditions in silk and cotton.

Varanasi, Banaras, Kashi- call it what you may but this ancient city represents hundreds of years of silk and muslin weaving. This city that promises to grant salvation to those who die in its arms also reminds of an opulent culture and splendid past.

The Banarasi silk sarees are known for their heavy and rich designs, intricate zari work and fine weaving traditions. Banarasi silk weaves are adorned with floral patterns with the use of gold and silver threads, net-like patterns and minakari patterns. Banarasi sarees are worn by brides on their weddings. They are worn on weddings, festivals and important occasions. Due to their heavy look and feel, they give away an aura of affluence and luxury.

Another famous embroidery style is the ‘chikankari’ of Lucknow. Fine thread work is done on cotton and muslin cloths. The colours are on the lighter side. Patterns are mainly floral and follow a line stitch pattern. Nur Jahan, wife of Jahangir, has been credited with the invention of chikankari though several other stories are also around.

Bihar: Bhagalpuri or Tussar Silk comes from the city of Bhagalpur in Bihar. Aptly called the ‘Silk City of India’, Bhagalpur is home to plentiful silk manufacturers and weavers. Bhagalpuri silk is known for its hardiness in conjunction with its glossy and shiny exterior. The sheen of the Bhagalpuri Silk is unparalleled and has no rivals. Tussar cocoons are used to spin a Bhagalpuri silk yarn. The designs are inspired by folk motifs.

Melody of the East

Assam: The eastern state of tea gardens is equally famous for its ‘Mekhela Sador’ which resembles a saree but is actually a three-piece outfit. Muga silk, Pat silk, and Eri silk are some of the frequently used fabrics.

Muga silk is well-known for its soft texture and durability. This silk lasts a lifetime and even more. The sheen of this fabric astonishingly increases after washing. Pat silk is obtained from mulberry silkworms. The silk is white in colour and is often used in making of the Mekhela Sador.

West Bengal: The kohl-lined eyes of Bengali ladies gleam with joy as they adorn sarees of ‘Taant’ and ‘Kantha’. The district of Murshidabad is famous for ‘tant’ sarees which comprise of thick borders and are light-weight and airy. They are suitable for the hot weather of the subcontinent and are used for daily wear. The Jamdani variety is exceptionally popular due to its fine weave. The prices are low to increase affordability.

‘Kanta’ is a type of embroidery where multiple sarees are stitched together to form quilts and covers. It is one of the most ancient embroidery techniques used in India.

Odisha: ‘Bomkai’ sarees produced by the Bhulla caste people of Odisha have been around for centuries. These sarees are also known as ‘Sonepuri’ sarees. The designs are indigenous and feature fish at the border which represents wealth and prosperity. They are also heavily influenced by tribal art. Tribal culture is an inherent part of Odisha as twenty-two percent of its population is tribal. the Bomkai sarees are created by Bhulla people and influenced by tribal traditions. The aristocratic and priestly classes wear these sarees. They are highly priced due to their fine fabric and glossy texture.

A royal connection

Madhya Pradesh: Chanderi sarees have a rich past. Chanderi was patronized by the Scindias and the Mughals and brought to the forefront. Zarikari, brocade, animal motifs and leaf motifs are used. The fabric can be both cotton and silk. Chanderi sarees are light and breezy. They are perfect for the hot weather of the plains and are preferred by Indian women. The fabric is transparent which makes it stylish and chic.

Maheshwari sarees originated from Maheshwar district of Madhya Pradesh. Much like Chanderi sarees, Maheshwari sarees are also gauzy and light. The sarees are quite colourful and have floral and stripe motifs.

Weaving Traditions - Rituals of the West

Gujarat: From the Patan district in Gujarat comes the ‘Patola’ saree. Patola sarees are extremely expensive and are woven by males only. The weaver families pass down the knowledge from one generation to another. The techniques are unknown to others outside these families. The technique is known as the double ikat and it takes a long time to make one saree. Geometrical patterns and bright colours are used in Patola sarees.

Maharashtra: The ‘Paithani’ saree originated from the Aurangabad district. The saree is known for its square border and single and multi-coloured designs. Paithani silk sarees have gold zari work on them and are quite expensive.

Weaving Traditions:Southern extravaganza

Tamil Nadu: ‘Kanjivaram’ or ‘Kanchipuram’ sarees from the district of Kanchipuram are known for their luxurious and strong material. The borders are broad and sturdy. Kanjivaram sarees have heavy gold embroidery and are worn on special occasions.

Karnataka: Mysore silk is obtained from the mulberry silkworms and is perhaps the most produced silk in India. Mysore silk designs are modest and unassuming. The sarees do not require any ironing or maintenance. Mysore silk has weaving traditions that are passed on from mothers to daughters due to their everlasting quality.

Andhra Pradesh: Venkatgiri sarees originate from Venkatgiri in Andhra Pradesh. The sarees are lightweight and airy. Ornate zari and brocade work is used to make these sarees. The sarees are also considered regal as they were mostly worn by queens and princesses.

Kerala: Kasavu sarees are considered apt for religious ceremonies in Kerala. The sarees are characterized by a gold border and an overall cream colour. Originally, it was a three-part garment where the pallu was not seen as a vital addition. However, these days, it is worn and manufactured like a saree. The saree is a particular favourite among women for the festival of Onam.

Khinkhwab

The weaving traditions of India not only portray the centuries-old traditions but also speak of the craftsmanship of the weavers and tell tales of the land.

At ‘Khinkhwab’, we offer a wide array of bona fide handloom sarees. Our beautiful sarees bring out the grace and the beauty of a woman in the most magnificent and stately manner.