As an employer it is important to know that if an employee has an issue with their mental health, the employer has a duty of care towards them, just as they do with any physical health matter, it is incumbent on them to treat the matter seriously. This means, as a starting point, talking to the employee and seeing what support they need at work.

Mental health issues can come in many different forms and types; they can be chronic and have been present for a long time or come on quite suddenly, without much warning, and take the employee by surprise, even if the cause of the issue is a major one-off event or something that’s built up slowly over time.

Bipolar disorder, schizophrenia, depression, anxiety and stress are all mental health issues affecting UK workers, though stress is not officially classed as a medical condition (it’s effect on workplace wellbeing however can be huge). Each individual reacts to the various established mental health issues in a different way, and so management of the issues can be just as diverse from person to person. This is why creating an environment where workers can discuss mental health and personal wellbeing issues openly is so important.

UK law

What do we mean by employers having a ‘duty of care’? This entails having to do all that is possible and reasonable to support employees’ wellbeing, including their health and safety. This can include everything from protecting workers from various types of discrimination to undertaking workplace risk assessments and ensuring all working environments are safe to work in.

As some mental health issues can be considered a disability even when symptoms are not outwardly showing all the time, laws protecting discrimination against people with disabilities should be studied and always taken into consideration. Even if the issue your employee is having is not considered a disability, making adjustments to their working arrangements environment, whatever they may be, is a good idea; not only for the person’s wellbeing but also for your organisation, as staff who are happier tend to be much more productive.

How to help

The ways in which you can support an employee with mental health issues will depend on all the different variables at play, such as the issue in question and the personality type of the sufferer. Dialogue is crucial to establish what is going to work, but solutions may include: allowing them more rest breaks, giving them a quieter area in which to work, having more frequent meetings with them to discuss and prioritise work than you would normally, perhaps even adjusting work hours.

As an employer, treating mental health and physical health with equal importance is crucial. If workers feel comfortable talking to their senior staff about mental health concerns, especially early on, it is less likely that the issues will become seriously problematic. This makes for a better workplace, leads to less time off on sick leave, and fosters a healthier company culture generally; one in which staff wellbeing is – and feels – like a priority.

Chutneys are one of the more popular perennial wares that you’ll find in farmers markets, food fayres, and shops alike. What you might not realise is that with minimal effort you can create some of your own fantastic flavours in your own kitchen.

There are numerous benefits to making your own chutney. For one, it’s a great way to make your fruits and vegetables last much longer than they usually would – homemade chutney can last for several months at the very least. In addition, it’s the ideal way to use up excess or misshapen fruits and vegetables, or those which are about to go out of season. This is because they all get chopped up so you won’t notice any imperfections, as you would if you ate the individual fruits and vegetables as normal.

Be selective

That said, it’s important to be selective when it comes to choosing your fruits and vegetables. Consider the fact that you’re effectively pickling the food, so if you don’t think it’ll taste nice with a slightly strong, vinegary taste, then steer clear. However, it’s a matter of personal taste. Most fruits and vegetables can be turned into pickles and chutneys, so take your pick! The only stipulation would be that whatever you go for, choose fruit and vegetables that are reasonably good quality, rather than those that are soft or bruised.

There are many different recipes and flavour combinations which you can try; there are too many to list here, so search around (or experiment!) until you find one that appeals to you. It’s important that you use the correct amounts of each ingredient as stipulated by the recipe, or your chutney could turn out far too strong.

Most chutney recipes should follow a similar guideline, which involves boiling the fruits or vegetables, combining spices, sugar and vinegar, then bottling it up.

Sterilise everything

Throughout the entire chutney making process, it’s crucial that you use equipment that is as sterile as possible. If you plan to make a business out of chutney production then you might want to consider investing in some specialist equipment, but otherwise some careful sterilisation of your utensils, pans and glass jars should be enough. Remember that in these jars you’ll be storing fairly wet foodstuffs for several months at a time, which is usually the ideal hiding place for bacteria to grow. As such, you’ll need to ensure that everything is as clean as possible; if you start off with no bacteria, then your chutney will last for even longer!

If you follow these simple steps, by the end of the afternoon you can have your very own delicious jar of homemade chutney. Seal it securely then store it in a cool, dark place until you’re ready to eat it. The best chutneys rest for two to three months before you even consider trying them, but that’s a matter of personal taste and experimentation!

In summary, making your own chutney at home is a very cheap and economical way to use up surplus fruits and vegetables – not to mention the fact that it’s surprisingly simple. Try it. Maybe we’ll be seeing you selling your own varieties at a farmers’ market sometime soon!

Digestive System Limitations

Horses are non-ruminant herbivores (hind-gut fermentors). Their small stomach only has a capacity of 2 to 4 gallons for an average-sized 1000 lb. horse. This limits the amount of feed a horse can take in at one time. Equids have evolved as grazers that spend about 16 hours a day grazing pasture grasses. The stomach serves to secrete hydrochloric acid (HCl) and pepsin to begin the breakdown of food that enters the stomach. Horses are unable to regurgitate food, so if they overeat or eat something poisonous vomiting is not an option.

Horses are also unique in that they do not have a gall bladder. This makes high fat diets hard to digest and utilize. Horses can digest up to 20 % fat in their diet, but it takes a span of 3 to 4 weeks for them to adjust. Normal horse rations contain only 3 to 4 % fat.

The horse’s small intestine is 50 to 70 feet long and holds 10 to 23 gallons. Most of the nutrients (protein, some carbohydrates and fat) are digested in the small intestine. Most of the vitamins and minerals are also absorbed here.

Most liquids are passed to the cecum, which is 3 to 4 feet long and holds 7 to 8 gallons. Detoxification of toxic substances occurs in the cecum. It also contains bacteria and protozoa that pass the small intestine to digest fiber and any soluble carbohydrates.

The large colon, small colon, and rectum make up the large intestine. The large colon is 10 to 12 feet long, and holds 14 to 16 gallons. It consists of four parts: right ventral colon, sternal flexure to left ventral colon, pelvic flexure to left dorsal colon, and diaphragmatic flexure to the right dorsal colon. The sternal and diaphragmatic flexures are a common place for impaction. The small colon leads to the rectum. It is 10 feet long and holds only 5 gallons of material.

Nutrients

Horses require six main classes of nutrients to survive; they include water, fats, carbohydrates, protein, vitamins,and minerals.

Water is the MOST IMPORTANT nutrient; horses can’t live long without it! Always make sure there is an adequate, clean supply of water. Horses generally drink about 2 quarts of water for every pound of hay they consume. In high temperature, hard work, or for the lactating mare the water requirement may be 3 to 4 times the normal consumption.

Signs that your horse may be water deficient include decreased feed intake and physical activity, and signs of dehydration like dry mucous membranes in the mouth, dry feces, and decreased capillary refill time. Possible causes of water deficiencies include no water source, low water palatability, or accessibility (frozen or receiving or contaminated), or illness.

Energy isn’t one of the six nutrients because the horse cannot physically consume energy, however, it is a requirement for sustaining life. The most dense source of energy is fat (almost three times more than carbohydrates or proteins); however, carbohydrates in the forms of fermentable fiber or starch are the most common source. Horses exercising, growing, pregnant in late gestation or early lactation need increased energy in their diet.

Signs of energy deficiency include weight loss, decreased physical activity, milk production, and growth rate. However, feeding a diet too high in energy can cause obesity increasing the risk of colic, laminitis, and contribute to increased sweat loss and exercise intolerance.

Fat can be added to a feed to increase the energy density of the diet. Fat has 9 Mcal/kg of energy, which is three-times that of any grain or carbohydrate source. Fat is normally found at 2 to 6% in most premixed feeds; however, some higher fat feeds will contain 10 to 12% fat.

Carbohydrates are the main energy source used in most feeds. The main building block of carbohydrates is glucose. Soluble carbohydrates such as starches and sugars are readily broken down to glucose in the small intestine and absorbed. Insoluble carbohydrates such as fiber (cellulose) bypass enzymatic digestion and must be fermented by microbes in the large intestine to release their energy sources, the volatile fatty acids. Soluble carbohydrates are found in nearly every feed source; corn has the highest amount, then barley and oats. Forages normally have only 6 to 8% starch but under certain conditions can have up to 30%. Sudden ingestion of large amounts of starch or high sugar feeds can cause colic or laminitis.

Protein is used in muscle development during growth or exercise. The main building blocks of protein are amino acids. Soybean meal and alfalfa are good sources of protein that can be easily added to the diet. Second and third cutting alfalfa can be 25 to 30% protein and can greatly impact the total dietary protein. Most adult horses only require 8 to 10% protein in the ration; however, higher protein is important for lactating mares and young growing foals.

Signs of protein deficiency include a rough or coarse hair coat, weight loss, and reduced growth, milk production, and performance. Excess protein can result in increased water intake and urination, and increased sweat losses during exercise, which in turn lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalances.

Vitamins are fat-soluble (vitamin A, D, E, and K), or water-soluble (vitamin C, and B-complex). Horses at maintenance usually have more than adequate amounts of vitamins in their diet if they are receiving fresh green forage and/or premixed rations. Some cases where a horse would need a vitamin supplement include when feeding a high-grain diet, or low-quality hay, if a horse is under stress (traveling, showing, racing, etc.), prolonged strenuous activity, or not eating well (sick, after surgery, etc.).

Most of the vitamins are found in green, leafy forages. Vitamin D is obtained from sunlight, so only horses that are stalled for 24 hours a day need a supplement with vitamin D. Vitamin E is found in fresh green forages, however, the amount decreases with plant maturity and is destroyed during long term storage. Horses that are under heavy exercise or under increased levels of stress also may benefit from vitamin E supplementation. Vitamin K and B-complex are produced by the gut microbes. Vitamin C is found in fresh vegetables and fruits, and produced naturally by the liver. None of these are usually required in a horse’s diet. Severely stressed horses, however, may benefit from B-complex and vitamin C supplements during the period of stress.

Minerals are required for maintenance of body structure, fluid balance in cells (electrolytes), nerve conduction, and muscle contraction. Only small amounts of the macro-minerals such as calcium, phosphorus, sodium, potassium, chloride, magnesium, and sulfur are needed daily.

Calcium and phosphorus are needed in a specific ratio ideally 2:1, but never less than 1:1. Alfalfa alone can exceed a Ca:P ratio of 6:1. Sweating depletes sodium, potassium, and chloride from the horse’s system, therefore, supplementation with electrolytes may be helpful for horses that sweat a lot. Normally, if adult horses are consuming fresh green pasture and/or a premixed ration, they will receive proper amounts of minerals in their diet, with the exception of sodium chloride (salt), which should always be available. Young horses may need added calcium, phosphorus, copper, and zinc during the first year or two of life.

Forages

Forages are classified as legumes or grasses. The nutrients in the forage vary greatly with maturity of the grasses, fertilization, management, and environmental conditions. In order to determine the nutrient content in forage it is best to take samples and get them analyzed by a forage testing lab (contact your local County Extension Office for testing information or see the fact sheet, FS714, Analysis of Feeds and Forages for Horses).

Legumes are usually higher in protein, calcium, and energy than grasses. They have more leaves than grasses and require optimal growth conditions (warm weather and good soil) to produce the best nutrients. Some legumes include clover and alfalfa. Some commonly used grasses include orchard grass, timothy, bluegrass, and fescue.

Hay is forage that has been harvested, dried, and baled before feeding to horses. Legume hay can contain 2 to 3 times more protein and calcium than grass hay. However, it is usually more costly. Common grass hays include timothy, brome and orchard grass. They have fine stems, seed heads and longer leaves than legumes. They are most nutritious when cut earlier in their growth stage. Maturity at harvest is key to quality. Second cut grass hays average 16 to 20% protein.

Appearance can be a good indicator of the amount of nutrients in the hay, however, color should not be used as sole indicator. Moldy or dusty hay should not be fed to horses. For more information see Table 1.

Table 1. Evaluating Hay Quality

Characteristics of Good-Quality Hay

Characteristics of Poor-Quality Hay

Low moisture content (12 to 18%).

Green in color.

Sweet smelling, like newly cut grass.

Free of mold and dust.

Cut before maturity.

Grass hays before seed heads mature and alfalfa cut early in bloom.

Free from weeds, poisonous plants, trash, or foreign objects.

Damp. Too much moisture causes mold.

Brown, yellow or weathered in color. Gray or black indicates mold.

Musty, moldy or fermented odor.

Dusty and moldy hay is unacceptable.

Cut late in maturity. Mature seed heads with grass hay or alfalfa cut late in bloom.

High weed content, poisonous plants, or animal carcasses in hay bales.

Concentrates

Grains

Oats are the most popular grain for horses. Oats have a lower digestible energy value and higher fiber content than most other grains. They are also more palatable and digestible for horses than other grains; however, they can be expensive.

Corn is the second most palatable grain for horses. It provides twice as much digestible energy as an equal volume of oats and is low in fiber. Because it is so energy dense it is easy to over feed corn, causing obesity. Moldy corn should never be fed—it is lethal to horses.

Sorghum (Milo) is a small hard kernel that needs to be processed (steam flaked, crushed, etc.) for efficient digestion and utilization by the horse. It is not palatable when used as a grain on its own, however, it can be used in grain mixes. Like corn, sorghum is high in digestible energy and low in fiber.

Barley also has hard hulls that should be processed to allow easier digestibility. It has moderate fiber and energy content, and can be a nutritious and palatable feed for horses.

Wheat is generally not used as a feedstuff because of its high cost. Its small hard kernels should be processed for horses to digest. Wheat is higher in energy than corn and best used in a grain mix because of its low palatability.

Protein Supplements

Soybean meal is the most common protein supplement, which averages around 44% crude protein. The protein in soybean meal is usually a high-quality protein with the proper ratio of dietary essential amino acids.

Cottonseed meal (48% crude protein) and peanut meal (53% crude protein) are not as common for horses as soybean meal.

Brewer’s grains (the mash removed from the malt when making beer) are a byproduct of the brewing industry. It is nutritious and palatable with about 25% crude protein and is also high in fat (13%) and B vitamins.

Fat Supplements

Vegetable oil is the most commonly used fat source in horse feeds. If adding the oil supplement as a top dress to feed start with ¼ cup/feeding and increase to no more than 2 cups/day over the course of 2 weeks for the average size horse (1000 lbs.).

Rice bran is a newer fat supplement on the market. It is distributed by some commercial feed dealers. It consists of about 20% crude fat, giving it an energy content of 2.9 Mcal/kg.

Feeding Guidelines

1. Forage is the base! Always try to feed the most forage possible then add concentrate.
2. Feed at a rate of 1.5 to 2% of the horse’s body weight (1000 lb. horse = 20 lbs.).
3. Feed by weight not volume!
   ** A 1 lb. scoop of Oats does not equal 1 lb. of Corn**
4. Stomachs are small so concentrates, if used, should be fed twice a day if not more with no more than 0.5% body weight per feeding.
5. To maintain body weight, most horses need only good forage, water, and a mineral block.
6. Store feed properly: it should be kept free of mold, rodents, or contamination.
7. Keep Ca:P ratios around 2 parts Ca to 1 part P.
8. Feed on a set schedule (horses are creatures of habit and are easily upset by changes in routine).
9. Change feeds gradually (horses’ stomachs cannot cope with drastic changes in feed; could cause colic).
10. When work or exercise decreases, decrease the grain.
11. Be aware of the pecking order in your horse’s pen— are they getting their feed?
12. Examine teeth at least once a year to make sure they are able to chew feed.

References and Supplemental Reading

Lewis, L.D. 1995. Feeding and Care of the Horse (2nd edition). Williams & Wilkins, Philadelphia, PA.

National Research Council. 1989. Nutrient Require­ments of Horses. National Academy Press, Washington, DC.

Ralston S.L. 1993. Analysis of Feeds and Forages of Horses. Rutgers Cooperative Extension. FS714.

Jam making is fantastically wholesome and worthwhile activity that the whole family can enjoy. Throw in some decorative jars and you also have a perfect, sustainable, plastic-free gift for friends, family and work colleagues. You too can make delicious homemade jam or marmalade every time by following these foolproof tips.

• Always use undamaged fruit. Fruit with too much damage will spoil the result, and the jam is likely to deteriorate quickly.
• Fruit freshness affects how the finished product sets. Jam, jelly and marmalade set because of pectin. Pectin occurs naturally in fruit and, when cooked with sugar and the naturally occurring acid in the fruit, thickens and sets the preserve. Citrus fruit, blackberries, apples, and red currants have high pectin levels. Soft fruits, such as peaches, have lower levels. If fruits are low in pectin, then fruits with a higher level need to be added. Alternatively, a few squeezes of lemon juice will help them to set. When possible, use slightly underripe fruit when pectin levels will be at the highest.
• Use granulated or preserving sugar. Granulated is fine for high-pectin fruits. Preserving sugar is more expensive, but will help set low-pectin fruits without the need to add lemon juice. Always make sure the sugar is completely dissolved before bringing to a boil. If not, the result will be grainy.
• Ensure all equipment you use is sparkling clean. For jelly making, always boil-wash the jelly bag or tea towel before using.
• Don’t make too large a quantity at one time. Large volumes of fruit and sugar will take a long time to reach setting point, causing the fruit to break up and eventually dissolve in the jam.
• Place a small plate or saucer into the fridge for 15 minutes to test for setting. Pour a spoonful of the hot jam, jelly or marmalade onto the plate and return to the fridge for 5 minutes. Push the edges of the jam with your index finger–it's set when it's all wrinkly and crinkly. Always test for setting point at the time the recipe suggests. If not set, continue to cook, checking every 5 minutes. Don’t overcook. It is tempting to keep cooking to achieve a firmer set. A slightly looser jam is preferable to one that tastes scorched or where the fruit has dissolved.
• Skim any scum that rises to the surface, only when setting point is reached. Skim with a ladle or add a tiny piece of butter and stir. This will dissolve the scum almost instantly.
• Always leave the jam to settle off the heat for 15 minutes once setting point is reached to prevent the fruit rising to the surface when poured into the jars.
• Always use clean, sterilized jam jars. To sterilize, wash in hot soapy water, rinse well and place upside down in a cool oven for at least half an hour.
• Cover the surface of the jam in the jar with a wax disc. This helps prevent mold forming during storage. Seal the jar with a tight-fitting lid or cellophane disc secured with an elastic band. Store in a cool, preferably dark place. Only store in the refrigerator once opened.
  

The need to boost the number of skilled people entering industry is, as we’re constantly reminded, one of industry’s most pressing issues. In its annual state of the industry report Engineering UK identified a need to fill up to 124,000 core engineering roles every year at a time when there’s an annual shortfall of around 59,000 engineering graduates and technicians.

There are numerous ongoing efforts to shift these worrying statistics, from major initiatives aimed at attracting underrepresented groups such as women and people from black and minority ethnic communities to literally hundreds of projects aimed at attracting and inspiring the next generation of engineers.

Yet despite all of this, the figures are proving stubbornly resistant to change.

In last week’s poll The Engineer asked for readers' views on this perennial problem, and specifically how they thought engineering recruitment issues could be most effectively targeted.

The most popular choice amongst the 363 respondents taking part was improvement to engineering pay, with 41 per cent of respondents agreeing that action here would have a major impact.

Indeed, many of those commenting felt that engineers are paid well below for the odds when compared to other skilled professions. “The pay scales need to be commensurate with other skilled professional careers (lawyers, doctors, architects etc.),” wrote intellimouse.

The next most popular suggestion was action on promoting other routes into engineering, with 20 per cent of respondents selecting this option. The least popular options were a focus on demographic gaps which was selected by nine per cent of the sample group, and the suggestion that older engineers should be persuaded to delay retirement (which received just four per cent of the vote).

Another recurring theme amongst the comments was a need to improve the status of engineering, and to do more to shift perceptions away from the “oily-rags” image that some readers felt was still off putting. “Joe public still view engineering as a ‘dirty hands job’. Financial incentives would help but I think changing the Status of the engineer would do more good. This I believe can only come about by having protected status like doctors and lawyers.” Wrote Chris Oates-Miller. “Until the public at large, the media and the politicians understand what we do and how they would be screwed without us, status and recruitment will remain a problem,” agreed Richard C.

Meanwhile, a relatively high number of respondents – 18 per cent of the sample – selected none of the above, perhaps suggesting that other options which weren’t included, such as a focus on retaining engineers considering a move to more lucrative sectors should be a priority.

What seems more likely though is that readers considering this incredibly complex issue realise that there is no real silver bullet, and that to get to grips with its skills issues Industry needs to be addressing the problem from multiple directions.

Strawberries

Whether grocer-bought, picked on a fruit farm or you’re lucky enough to have them ripening in the garden, strawberries are as quintessentially British as the Wimbledon Championships they're so readily associated with (with cream, of course). Fill jam jars with your favourite strawberry jam recipe and twist on a gingham lid for that rustic village fete feel.

Gooseberries

When it comes to gooseberries, it can be easy to shrug them off as too sour for any sort of jam recipe. When uncooked these small green fruits can get your face in a twist with bitterness. But don’t be left behind; when boiled with a little sugar, they can make the most delightful jelly or jam that can be used in all manner of recipes sweet and savoury for a little sharpness.

Apricots

This is considered by many to be the easiest jam to make, so perfect for the novice jam maker! Apricots have a medium amount of pectin, so they don’t tend to underset or overset. Adding a teaspoonful of dried, lemon-scented pelargonium leaves at the end of cooking gives it a great twist, but there's no need to over-complicate things; this jam can be absolutely delicious with just three ingredients: apricots, lemon juice and sugar.

For some fantastic jam recipes, why not head over to the BBC Goof Food website where you will find hundreds of amazing ideas.

Happy Jamming!

We’re all guilty of taking our feet for granted. It’s easy to forget about them as they generally ‘just work’, taking us from A to B and back again and generally being central to our daily lives. But because they are so central, they can be put under a lot of strain as we put them through their paces.

Though our feet are terrific at their job and can put up with most that we throw at them (or under them), they’re certainly not immune to wear and tear. That’s when your friendly neighbourhood podiatrist / chiropodist comes in handy.

We’ve been speaking with Gosforth Physio and Wellness who offer chiropodist services in Newcastle and they’ve helped us answer some of the most common questions relating to chiropody.

I’ve heard of chiropodists, but what do podiatrists do?

SPOILER ALERT: there really is no actual difference between podiatry and chiropody. However, for future reference, podiatry is generally considered to be the preferred ‘umbrella term’ for foot health services. FUN FOOT FACT: though chiropodist is still widely used in the UK, in the majority of other English-speaking countries, podiatry is the phrase that is used more commonly. The main thing to remember is that the terms are interchangeable.

So what do chiropodists (podiatrists) actually do?

In short, they work in the area of foot and lower limb care and maintenance.

Treatments can range from general foot care to those involving complex conditions.

Typically, your chiropodist will offer services such as:
• The removal of corns and calluses
• Treating problematic nails, such in-growing nails
• Treatments for ulcers, and wounds
• Treatment for mechanical hip, knee, heel or foot pain and sports injuries
• Diabetic foot assessment and treatment
• Assessment and provision of insoles or orthotics (custom-made inserts that fit inside the shoe) if required
• Advice on maintaining mobility and prevention of falls
• Treatment of painful verrucae
• General foot care advice

How do chiropody services work?

The primary role of your chiropodist during initial consultation is to identify and diagnose disorders, diseases and deformities of the feet and legs and then put together and appropriate schedule of treatment. Everyone’s feet, and everyone’s lifestyles, are different, and this will be reflected in the recommendations for treatment that are made.

What if my feet are in such a way that getting to a chiropodist is difficult?

Not a problem! If you would prefer to be treated in the comfort of your own home, or are incapacitated and simply cannot make it to a clinic, then your chiropodist should be happy to bring a professional and friendly service to your home, whatever your circumstances.

So, there's no reason not to have happy feet!

The idea of a cornice has its roots in ancient Greek and Roman architecture. In Classical Greek architecture, the cornice was the top element of the entablature, the horizontal section of a building exterior immediately above a series of columns and below the roof.

Cornices had a basic utilitarian purpose, because they directed rainwater away from the sides of a building, but they quickly became a decorative element as well.

They have been a staple of Western interior architecture for many generations, starting during the Georgian Period and running through Regency (more decorative) and the Victorian (revivalist) Period.

Etymology

The word cornice (which means “ledge” in Italian) can be defined as any horizontal moulding that sits at the ‘crown’ of a building or piece of furniture. With reference to buildings, cornice could refer to the often decorated ledge around the exterior of a building (which has the purpose of diverting Neo-Baroque) and Edwardian periods (cleaner lines with less ornament).

Because of this long heritage, a sound understanding of the cornice, its historyand its applications make up an important part of the study of architecture and interior design, and as an architectural element, it remains ever-popular today and can typically be seen in all different manner of properties all around the globe.

What is the purpose of a cornice?

As mentioned above, on the exterior of a building, the cornice serves to send rain water away from the walls of the building, thus protecting them from erosion and other water-related ills (and minimising rain coming in through open windows). These exterior cornices have been architectural features since Greek times. These days, home builders employ gutters, eaves (the overhanging, bottom edges of rooves) and project the ends of gables to achieve this drainage. On the interior of a house, though the cornice comes in a myriad of different styles and lines, they all have solely a decorative function.

Types and uses of interior cornice

From the Georgian period onwards, the grander rooms in a building, used for receiving and entertaining guests, would have more elaborate mouldings, whilst smaller private rooms had simpler decoration. The first Georgian period designs were taken from classical influences, from Greek and Roman Palladian to English Baroque, and a common design was the egg and dart or dentil which featured along the bottom edge of the moulding.

The egg and dart cornice is still popular today, especially on higher ceilings where a large egg and dart can give a room an instantly classical, Georgian feel. Along with the egg and dart, the Georgian period gave us many different examples of cornices with clean, horizontal lines, whose neutrality is perfectly suited to all kinds of modern properties.

The Georgian Period was punctuated by the Regency Period which brought with it more decorative and detailed cornice designs, with intricate leaf work being widely used. The prosperous Victorian era mouldings are very eclectic in design, the Victorian cornice being no exception, and the Gothic-influenced cornices of that time are still popular today.

Plaster cornice that lasts

The most authentic and durable material for interior, period cornice mouldings is fibrous plaster. Fibrous plaster is composed of plaster that’s been laid upon wood-stretched canvas. It is widely used for architectural mouldings such as cornices, ceiling roses and ornamental work as well as columns, pillars and pilasters.

If you were restoring a Grade II listed building, this would likely be the material you would use, but installing a fibrous plaster cornice is not an easy job and not for the casual DIY enthusiast working on their own, as it’s at least a 2-person job and requires master craftsmen with years of experience to perfect.

In the right hands, though, fibrous plaster is by far and away the superior material for interior cornice decoration, and the only real choice for authentic restoration and high-end renovation.