August 4, 2020

Everything You Need To Know About The Rolex Explorer Ref. 14270

The Rolex Explorer 14270 holds an interesting place in horological history. Caught somewhere in wristwatch purgatory – not old enough to be vintage, and not new enough to be cool – it is a vastly under-appreciated timepiece in collecting circles, but one with a serious cult following amongst enthusiasts. It has the rare distinction of being, quite likely, the very first modern Rolex sports watch, ushering in a new era of watchmaking and watch design for the brand. The Rolex Explorer 14270 is a watch that is so simple in its execution that people just don't talk about it. Well, with the 30th anniversary of its release having just passed, it is time to put the spotlight on this sleeping giant.

The Rolex Explorer, as an entire line, certainly needs no introduction, but let's give it one anyway. Historically speaking, it embodies the brand's gift for myth-making and marketing. It was the 1953 Mt. Everest expedition which led to its creation. Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay took with them a white Rolex Oyster Perpetual as they ascended Everest's peak, a notoriously onerous and life-risking undertaking. Of course, the inclusion of a Rolex watch on that trip was not happenstance, but rather a purposeful branding exercise by Rolex to show just what the Oyster case was capable of. The white Rolex Oyster Perpetual Superlative Chronometer not only partook in the adventure, but returned home to tell the tale – which it has done for nearly 70 years since. This masterclass in brand building by Rolex resulted in the creation of a 36mm watch, similar in essence to the watch which summited Everest, but bearing the now-iconic name, "Explorer."

Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on the famous 1953 Everest Expedition. Look closely, and you just might spot a very famous watch. It was also in 1953 that the Explorer reference 6350 was released. While not technically the first Explorer, it is the first to feature the Explorer name on the dial. Featuring Arabic numerals at 3, 6, and 9, a 36mm case size, and black dial, this watch was the foundation for the Explorer design language going forward. The 6350 has become known as the "honeycomb" due to the dial pattern which looks – you guessed it – like a honeycomb. This is an exceedingly rare watch, as it was produced for just about one year, and concurrently with its predecessor, the 6150. The 6150, and 6350 were succeeded by the 6610. That watch sported a matte black dial, gilt numerals, and a very familiar dial layout. The 6610 was the precursor to the longstanding 1016 which was then released in 1963. The 1016 lived a long enough production life – 27 years to be exact – to see a host of variations on its overall design. From the Albino dial, to the Space-Dweller, the stretch bracelet, the gilt underline, and the solid link bracelet, each one of these variations represents the elements that make watch collecting so endlessly fascinating.

The white dial Rolex Oyster Perpetual which made the trip to Everest's peak. This watch now sits in the Beyer Museum in Zürich, Switzerland.

The 1016 played an integral role in the legend of the Explorer. It gained considerable fame in literary circles, being a watch chosen by such major figures as Ian Fleming, William Gibson, and HODINKEE fan-favorite, Gary Shteyngart. The 1016 expanded the Explorer mythos and provided the foundation for all future Explorers. The 3-6-9 dial configuration, the triangular marker at twelve, the rectangular markers filling out every other hour, the Mercedes handset, and the "Explorer" mark were all 1016 staples that helped the little watch become a horological behemoth. But all things come to an end, and in 1989 (although the exact date is a little fuzzy), the 1016 gave way to the next generation.