KART SETUP BASIC ADVICE FOR BEGINNERS TKART
If there is a potentially endless and even an overly complicated topic concerning karts, that is undoubtedly the kart setup itself. Although at first glance karts may seem like simple vehicles, in reality go-karts have many adjustments which can alter their behavior and drivability, just as there are many variables that affect the ideal choices to be implemented. Starting from the track characteristics and the type of asphalt used, weather conditions, engine used and the driving style of the kart user. On several occasions, here on TKART, we have given you the thoughts and ideas from the experts to provide advice on many of these variables that go into Kart setups and also explaining on how to analyze telemetry to adjust accordingly. Very often, those who take to the track do not have all the means, or training, to understand entirely what goes into the analysis and act accordingly when making adjustments, or they just simply just want to have fun on the track on a nice day. Quickly assembling the kart maybe not be the best possible setup that is available, but just enough to drive without problems and enjoying themselves. Here are 6 tips on how to choose the best basic setup for all circumstances and conditions for all of these drivers and especially for the beginners.
The first consideration that can raise a concern is the type of track one is driving on, as in dealing with a technical track with many tight corners and short straights it is logically very different than driving on a circuit with faster turns followed by longer straights. These characteristics require the vehicle to have different “necessities” in order to maximize the performance in each specific situation. Slower tracks with sequential turns to be covered mainly at lower speeds will reward a reactive and faster vehicle when changing directions, with excellent traction when exiting turns very quickly. On the contrary a stable vehicle that is set up for higher speeds and less responsive, with the drivers’ inputs when steering on turns and cornering, is more suitable for a faster track.
If the circuit can be classified as a slower track, the basic advice is to start with a axle width (distance between the two wheels on the same axle) that is wider at the front end, so as to give the kart greater ability to maintain its trajectory, while tightening the rear axle width to make the kart is faster when entering a corner which ensures greater traction when exiting the turn as quickly as possible. Additionally, it will help to increase the l'caster angle (angle between the rotation axis of the stub axle and a vertical plane passing through the wheels’ axis) and mounting a front stiffening bar, the effect of this will be more pronounced the closer it is to the connection of the “Cs” stub axles’ support structure. This can be a good basic adjustment which is added the variable concerning the wheels’ toe angle, which is the angle that the plane of the wheel forms with the longitudinal axis of the vehicle seen from above. On a slower track, the toe will tend to have a more positive value (in technical jargon we speak of a “open toe”), this is done in order to make the kart better and more prepared for the driver’s steering inputs. The choice of the gear ratio, which is the ratio between the number of teeth on the gear wheel and those on the sprocket, is also very important. If the track does not have longer straights, it is better to opt for a larger gear wheel coupled to a sprocket with a lower number of teeth (Caution: this modification of only one sprocket’s tooth has a much greater effect than a gear wheel’s tooth). This will ensure a faster RPM acceleration, albeit with the disadvantage of a lower top speed.
Applying logic, it is easy to understand that in the case of a fast track, the adjustments are implemented in the opposite direction to what was previously stated. Consequently, we will tend to “close” the toe and reduce the caster angle, to have a less abrupt kart able to enhance a driving style which must be as clean as possible, since in cornering with higher speeds small corrections with the steering wheel have a greater impact on the lap times. At the rear, a wider track width ensures a more stable rear axle especially when entering a corner, taking into account that due to the greater axle flexion, the traction in exiting should be reduced. This is a consequence of the fact that only the internal part of the tire is in contact with the asphalt. This could be damaging in exiting a corner followed by a long straight stretch. The gear ratios must be extended, taking care not to reach the rev limiter before the longest straight ends.
What was described in the general theory for slow and fast tracks, everything will have to be revised by evaluating the grip level of the track. It may happen, in fact, that while driving on a slower track with a kart set up to maximize grip, there could be an excessive adhesion to the surface due to a large amount of tire on the asphalt. We can easily recognize this from the fact that the kart tends to “skip” when cornering, preventing a smooth turn, especially in the stage in which we accelerate again (the engine struggles to rev up). In this case it is better, for example, to reduce the caster angle or the front track width.
On the contrary, on a faster, but not very rubberized track, reducing the rear track width and increasing the caster angle of the height from the ground will allow for more grip on corners, allowing an increase in the overall speed. Basically, it is a question of finding the best compromise between what “ideally” should be done on a track of a particular type and what those specific conditions of the moment actually allow us to do.
So far, we have talked about “increasing” and “reducing” angles and values, but we have not mentioned the “how much” to increase or reduce. We intentionally did not indicate absolute values because the starting point must always be the one provided by the manufacturer. In fact, the indications given are those that the manufacturer, based on experience and tests carried out, guarantees us as a generally valid for “any type “of track conditions. It is from this basis that the changes described can be implemented according to the type of track and the amount of grip. Any change, however, should always be done gradually, starting from the simplest adjustment to then achieve, if able, a more substantial and complex changes.
Just as water when it falls abundantly erases the marks left on the asphalt, so it must be done with the indications given so far on the various types of setup. When it rains, everything previously said, does not matter. On a wet track, in fact, the primary need is to seek the greatest possible grip, therefore, raising the kart’s center of gravity by positioning the seat higher and using the maximum chassis height both in the front and the rear end. Furthermore, regarding the track widths, it is necessary to tighten the rear end and widen the front one.